My business here is done.

The good, the bad and the ugly. That's what I've tried to bring to those of you who followed me throughout this process and I think this last entry from the bottom of the world will have a touch of all of those. While I'll admit that it's been hard to write as much as I should, I like to think I've been nothing but honest and open about the experience so far so here it goes, one more time.

In addition to around 350 new friends on Facebook, I'm taking many things away from Punta Arenas, Chile. I'm taking amazing memories of some of the most beautiful landscapes I'll ever see in my life. I got a chance to go to El Calafate again with Marie's family, who happens to be visiting from the good ol' USA, this past weekend and I was once again blown away by being so close to the dumbfounding Perito Moreno Glacier. It's one small example of how something as natural and untainted as a huge piece of ice can completely trump any 3D special effect in any movie you'll ever see. Patagonia has threatened me with intense storms, icy streets and sidewalks and wind that makes you wish you didn't have a face but it's also rewarded me threefold by offering sights that defy words. Saying they're beautiful and breathtaking simply doesn't do enough. You have to see for yourself.

As cliche as this sounds, I'll be taking away some lessons about who I thought I was and what I think I need to be moving forward. Coming to Chile with the English Opens Doors program gave me the opportunity to live inside a community with a host family that would show me what these people are really about. I pictured myself really getting to know these people and spending almost all my time with them. Unfortunately, that didn't happen. While blame cannot be placed on any one side of that problem, I do feel that circumstances outside my control contributed to me having an experience that didn't go quite as well as it could have. My problems really were minor considering other volunteers had to deal with families that wouldn't even feed them at times but mine were problems nonetheless.

It's fair to say that my life was pretty hot and cold here. During the day, I was a small scale teen idol at school that everyone seemed to care about. Everything I did, said and asked was noticed, examined and questioned. While at home, I felt like the invisible man. As I sit here in my room alone as the clock approaches almost ten o'clock and wonder why we aren't having some sort of last dinner together before I leave first thing in the morning, I'm forced to think about how we got here. I will admit that I'm not a easy person to get close to. It takes time and patience. I'm afraid neither was afforded to me by most of the adults I met while here. I definitely would classify people here as nice and polite but I wouldn't go as far as saying they were caring or welcoming. The language barrier certainly didn't do anyone any favors and it's a shame that I leave this place feeling as though they never really got to know the real me. Now I know I'm not a bad person. A lot of people that I really respect and enjoy seem to like me back so I refuse to think there's something terribly wrong with me. I was never anything but polite, positive and relaxed so the reason for the occasional cold shoulders that I receive here eludes me. No one ever told me about any issues. I feel as though the family I lived with had very busy lives that kept them away from the house quite often. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to develop the same sort of busy life so I found myself sitting in my room studying Spanish with a computer instead. I don't want this to sound as though I'm bad mouthing the host family I stayed with. I truly bear no hard feelings and I wish them nothing but continued happiness and success. I'm extremely grateful the roof, bed, food and comfort that I was lucky to enjoy for the last 8 months but most of the time I felt like an obligation instead of an addition at home. That sucks.

I could have done more. I could have forced myself into more situations and done a better job to show that I wanted to be in the thick of things. I should have. I regret not being more demonstrative and emotive when the opportunities presented themselves. My hesitation was due to the language difficulties, the hurry everyone always seemed to be in and my own deficiencies when it comes to self confidence and pride. It was just a tough match when it came to me and them. The situation called for someone who is willing to literally call for attention and that has never been, and never will be, me. I completely understand why that sort of thing was necessary here but I also don't think there's anything wrong with me for not being able to be that way. We just never found our balance.

On the bright side, I sincerely hope that this experience will allow me to appreciate the people that care about me more than I ever did before. It's easy to take those people for granted until their 7,000 miles away. I can't wait to see my family in a few weeks. Their loving words were always refreshing and I appreciated their emails more than they know. It also applies to someone that was right here with me. Marie has been, and will continue to be, the most important person in the world to me. Her never ending support and genuine sweetness deserves more appreciation than I could ever hope to show. I can't wait to see what the coming months hold for us. Finding her has been the best part of coming to Chile, sin duda.

On that note, it's time to check out of Punta Arenas. I went swimming in the Strait of Magellan today with another volunteer, Chris, and ex-volunteer, Nathaniel, who happened to be passing through town. It was officially the last item on my list of things to do here in the south. Not a bad way to go out, I'd say.

It was cold and difficult but I'm extremely glad I did it.

Mi discursito

Today was my last day of class. How this day arrived so quickly is beyond my realm of comprehension. They had a small assembly with the high schoolers (which represents most of my students) where they gave me the opportunity to say a few words to the girls I've been working with this year. Some of the girls also came up and said a few thank yous and gave me gifts. I even got a little planner with daily quotes from the bible from the head nun... not sure what I'm going to do with that.

At any rate, it was a great day that also was quite sad. I've said it before and I'll say it again. The students are what made me keep going. Without them, I'm not sure I would have made it. It certainly wouldn't have been nearly as fun or rewarding. Whenever I was out of my mind with stress about teachers/home/the Chilean educational system/Spanish, the students are the thing that brought a smile to my face. For that, I'll always hold their memory in a special part of my heart. I know that sounds quite mushy but I've been lucky to have students that seemed to enjoy my company so much. They made my job easier and made my life better.

Anyway, in an effort to preserve the memory of the day, I thought I'd post what I said at the end of our assembly. I'm not going to lie, I had to fight off some tears towards the end. If you can't read Spanish, I guess you'll have to ask me to explain next time you see me... or you can try your luck at translate.google.com.

Primero, quiero decir gracias... muchisma gracias a todos. No puedo agradecerles lo suficiente. Siempre ustedes me han hecho sentir bienvenido y querido. Por eso, voy a tener nada más que recuerdos fantasticos.

Aprender un nuevo idioma es dificil y el aprendizaje de la vida en un pais extranjero es más dificil. A veces me sentía mal porque todo parecío extraño pero siempre ustedes me hicieron sentir mejor con sus palabras buenas y sonrisas hermosas. La verdad es que yo no lo habria logrado sin ustedes.

Yo vine por enseñar ingles y aprender castellano. Mientras espero que todos han aprendido algo de Inglés, realmente espero que todos hemos aprendido algo acerca del mundo. Es mucho más pequeño que todos pensamos. Yo creo que no somos tan diferentes.

Ustedes han sido bendecidos de vivir en un pais hermoso con mucha variedad. Hay que aprovecharlo y verlo. Haganme un favor y disfruten de la belleza que tienen a su alrededor, porque la mayoría de las personas en este mundo no tienen tanta suerte.

Hay un dicho en Inglés que, más o menos, dice “Paso a paso, puede llegar muy lejos”. Deseo que todos tienen el valor y la fortuna de dar muchos pasos en sus vidas. Si los pasos que se dan a los Estados Unidos, recuerda que siempre tendrán un amigo alla.

De nuevo, muchas gracias por todo. Aunque soy de un pais que está muy lejos, una parte de mi siempre será de Magallanes.

To live in a postcard...

The W has been completed. After 6 days of walking totaling around 65 miles traveled, I can unequivocally say that Torres del Paine was an amazing experience that borders on indescribable. Yet I find myself sitting here trying to describe it...

Obligatory ''before'' shot.

Going into Torres del Paine, I wasn't necessarily a rookie. I've been on countless camping trips with my dad, friends and, somewhat regrettably, the Boy Scouts. Setting up tents, rolling up sleeping bags and making sure your head is uphill before you fall asleep are all things I've done many times and have no hesitations about doing. However, I cannot say the same in terms of hiking and trekking... especially for a 6 day trek through one of the more famous national parks in the world. I knew the basics of what I'd need and what kind of experience to expect when sleeping on the ground for consecutive nights but I had no idea just how tough some of it would be. Trekking through the park was probably the most physically demanding thing I've ever done. Of course, there have been times when I've been more tired or worn out in the short term (for example, after long runs or soccer games) but this trek really introduces you to a new level of tired. Walking up and down hills with a pack for 6-7 hours will wear you out even if it's just for one day. If you have to then sleep on the cold ground and get up in the morning ready to do it again, it really starts to break you down. I had the unfortunate fortune of needing to buy a backpack before the trip. For the same reason that you shouldn't buy a new pair of shoes before running a marathon, you shouldn't buy a backpack the day before you leave for a trekking trip. My back and neck were hurting pretty badly after the second day but they eventually toughened up and I was fine by the end. Despite all the physical pain, I managed to have a great time seeing some of the most beautiful things these eyes have ever seen. I think it's appropriate for me to now break the news that I don't have any pictures that. In a strange twist of fate, my camera battery freaked out the night before we left and wouldn't recharge. All the pictures seen here are borrowed from Marie.

We started near Lago Pehoe which is that glacier greenish-blue color that you really have to see to believe. It looks like the color of the ponds at miniature golf courses... that really makes it sound crappy, doesn't it? At any rate, I did lots of obligatory rock skipping and water watching while nestled right next to the massive Paine Grande mountain that holds a few of the glaciers that provide the lake with water.

Paine Grande on the left. Los Cuernos on the right.

From there, we moved around Paine Grande to the absolutely immense Glaciar Grey. A couple of the guys and I decided to take a swim in the lake, justly named Lago Grey. I figured it might be the only chance I get to swim in a lake with a glacier so the hypothermia that threatened seemed worth the risk. Needless to say, it was cold. I was hoping to last at least a couple minutes. As I waded in and felt all the muscles in my body lock up and noticed I was having a hard time yelling to express how cold it was because my lungs wouldn't expand like they're accustomed to, I decided the possibility of literally freezing and bobbing up and down in the lake with the rest of the icebergs wasn't what I wanted from my future. So I lasted a grand total of 25 seconds.




Day 3 brought the unenviable task of walking back around Paine Grande to a campsite sandwiched between it and Los Cuernos del Paine. Because of the shape of the W, there are parts you have to walk twice and I found these parts the most difficult because the excitement of turning a corner and seeing something you haven't seen before doesn't exist anymore. Those hikes just felt like work. We awoke the next day to walk further up between the two peaks into the Valle del Frances. Reaching the end of that trail may have been the most scenic spot of all. You were surrounded by snowcapped peaks, rivers, forest and glaciers. You could also look back out over the southern horizon and see lakes, islands and distant mountain ranges. It was incredible. After descending back to the campsite we had to move around the base of Los Cuernos to another campsite that was tucked right under them. I have to say I like Los Cuernos more than Las Torres, for which the park is named. There's just something about their colors and sharpness that are more striking to me.




Day 5 may have been the most difficult day to complete. That was partly due to the never ending sloping hills that needed to be conquered and also due to the blistering temperatures. It couldn't have been much warmer than 70 degrees but it felt like it was 110. The reward for such a tough day was arriving at the base of Las Torres which signaled the last of the landmarks on our trek.

We were tired.

We woke up at 4:45 am on Day 6 in order to make the nearly vertical climb up to Las Torres in time for sunrise. Seeing the them light up as if they were on fire with the morning light was pretty remarkable and I don't take for granted how special it was to be able to see if from so close up.



The rest of that day was spent working our way back down toward the area where there's a hotel that's a stop for the shuttle buses which take you to the main entrance of the park and back to the friendly confines of Puerto Natales. My lovely girlfriend and I celebrated by sharing what may be the single most delicious beer I've ever drank in the lobby of the hotel while we waited.

I came back to Punta Arenas and was welcomed with a crushingly underwhelming afternoon and immediately wanted to go back. I'm in full countdown mode now... Machu Picchu in less than a month!

I'm going to be a trekker for Halloween.

This Halloween will certainly be one that I'll never forget. It won't be for the reasons you may be thinking upon hearing that though. I won't be exposed to some new kind of cultural rituals or parties that only a Chilean Halloween could present. Instead, I'll be returning to the famed Torres del Paine national park (the picture above is actually from the park) that we had the chance to visit during our first weekend here in the south. This time we'll be attempting to conquer the famous W trek. It's called the W because of the path the trail takes around various peaks, glaciers, lakes and rivers along the way cause it to form the shape of a W. Clever enough for you?

Now this is no day hike. We're planning to arrive in the park to begin the journey on Wednesday and we won't be done until the following Monday morning. Although I'm currently an English teacher, my math skills tell me that's 6 days & 5 nights of camping and hiking. I can't remember ever being on a camping trip quite that long. I was in the Boy Scouts for a few years and I think the longest I'd ever gone was 5 days & 4 nights so this will certainly be a test. I am happy to report that instead of the obligatory weirdoes that made up my Boy Scout troop, I'll have company in the form of Marie (my fantastically, wonderful girlfriend) and 4 other volunteers (who aren't too shabby either). While hiking around and camping for 5 nights with 6 people will be tough, the benefits will surely present themselves as we'll get to hear all kinds of interesting stories.

Hopefully, this time next week I'll be writing a new blog about how awesome the trip was and not about how I know only possess 9 toes due to an unfortunate sleeping bag zipper accident. Plenty of pictures to follow, of course. For now, I've gotta go finish packing.

WISH US LUCK!

The novelty has simply worn off.

I have just about a month left in Punta Arenas. There were times throughout the last 7 months where that phrase seemed as far away as my old bed in Huntington Beach. As we creep closer and closer to our volunteer expiration date, I feel more and more ready to go making it feel still a bit too far away. While that might sound bad, I can assure you that the reasons for those emotions aren't all negative.

I'd be lying if I said everything has been peachy and that I'll miss doing everything I'm doing. There are parts of being a volunteer teacher that are thankless, useless and frustrating. There are parts of living with a family that isn't truly your own that are alienating, embarrassing and depressing. There are also parts of living in a foreign country that are humbling, awkward and sometimes just plain stupid. However, I knew what I was signing up for when I came here so I've tried to take all of it in stride and not ever let it get me down. That strategy is successful most of the time but I still have my days when I just want to feel sorry for myself. I quickly realize how silly it is to be feeling sorry for myself as I've gotten to have some incredible adventures so my mood usually corrects itself... and then I have to drag myself to a class full of 7th graders and we start the cycle all over again.

A lot about life here has simply become the norm, which in and of itself was never the point. I arrived to much excitement from my family, school and community. Everyone was happy to see me, curious to hear me speak my ridiculous Yankee language (they really do refer to it that way sometimes), and excited to introduce me to some of the interesting aspects of Chilean life and culture. Those were absolutely fantastic weeks where time seemed to fly by. To be fair, that may have been because the days actually were flying by since the sun was up for only about 7 hours per day. Now that we're entering spring and I'm entering my 8th and final month, the days are getting incredibly long and they're beginning to feel that way too. Much of the excitement about what I could/would/should do has worn off to a point where I feel like some people don't even notice me anymore. Now let's get one thing straight... I've never been one to be disappointed at not being noticed. I'm definitely not the type to be screaming for attention or feel neglected if I'm not the life the of the party. BUT in this situation, I never expected to be an afterthought. At that point, it feels like we're all kind of missing the point of me being here. I came to make kids excited about English, to expose teachers to new ideas of how to teach and to exchange cultural experiences and traditions with my family and community. As we press on through these last weeks, I feel that much of that has been tossed out the window. I'm not the new, exciting person that just showed up one day. I'm just part of the scenery now which certainly represents my cue to find an exit.

While all of this represents the forces that are pushing me away from all this wind and ice, there are other reasons that make it feel as though the US is ready to pull me back that I consider much more positive and exciting. More than anything else, I'm ready to get back to normal life. While this has been an incredible experience that has allowed me to escape a lot of the boring, monotonous routine that can sneak up on you, I'm ready to be building something again. I'm ready to have a job that I can feel passionate and confident about. I'm ready to start building a life that I can be dedicated to because I know it won't be disappearing any time soon. At the ripe old age of 26, I can't be messing around with excuses about wild oats for much longer. The money supplied by having an actual job will be nice to have too.

While I realize this post isn't the sort of butterflies and rainbows that most would enjoy reading, it's still represents part of this experience. Things have been great but things have also been tough. The bottom of the world isn't a glamorous place to be and neither are screaming, pre-teen girls. Such is life... for a little while longer anyway.

Vivan los mineros! Viva Chile!

Just wanted to drop a quick note to capture the feeling of the day.

In case you haven't watched the news, the 33 miners that had been trapped for more than 2 months underground are making their way out. Starting last night at about 5 pm, all the news stations began covering the last stages of this remarkable rescue. There was only one feed from the top of the hill where the team was working so all the video feeds were the same thing and, more or less, all the reporters were saying the same thing. As if the anticipation wasn't already jacked up enough, many of the stations showed numerous special stories about all different aspects of the experience that these men, their families, the community, the president, the minister of mining and even the media had gone through. At almost midnight, the rescue capsule finally reached the den where the men have been waiting anxiously for nearly 70 days. Some 20 minutes later, the capsule poked out from the hole in the ground and the entire country gasped. The first miner came out of the capsule with a big smile and immediately hugged his crying son. This was just the first of the 33 but everyone suddenly felt such joy at an accomplished mission. They really did it and I still think most people can't quite believe it has worked out as well as it has.

The Chileans are so very proud of this moment and what it means to the history of their country. The news constantly reminds the viewers that the entire world is watching what's coming out of that small hole in the middle of desert of northern Chile. I think we, in the US, take for granted how often our news is everyone's news. In Chile, there isn't much attention given to the comings and goings of life here around the world so this is a truly special moment. I heard one TV reporter mention that this news story will be the thing that people will begin to remember Chile for instead of some of the less favorable memories some may still harbor. Before this, most people around the world who knew Chile was a country and not something you put on your food to make it spicy, might have mentioned the recent earthquake. Obviously, the earthquake was a tragic experience for the people and not something most would classify as a happy memory. Others might think of Salvador Allende, the US backed overthrow of his government and the subsequent presidency of General Pinochet that was filled with oppression and human rights abuses. These definitely aren't the type of associations most Chileans would want you to think about when mentioning their beloved country's name. This incredible rescue is something that every person is proud of. Chile, and it's people, have done something never before accomplished. No one had ever been trapped underground for that amount of time and come out alive. No one had ever been trapped underground that deep and lived to tell the tale. Chile now has 32 heroes of their own (1 is Bolivian). They've shown the world that hope and strength of mind can get us through some of the most desperate situations we could ever imagine. For these men, life will never be the same. In some ways, I think the same could be said for the country.

Chiloé. Not as creepy as it was supposed to be.

Vacation Rewind Part 5 of 6

We'd read and heard quite a bit about Chiloé and it's one-of-a-kind scenery and vibe. Based in hundreds of years of folklore, some believe in the legends of ghost ships filled with witches, evil forest dwarves that take young girls' virginity and a bull with a single golden horn which can cure various ailments. The region in which it exists is characterized by hundreds of islands with the big island of Chiloé being the main attraction. As seems to happen all over the world, when you leave people isolated on islands, strange things seem to invade their thoughts.

I do have a news flash for anyone that's striken with the image of some kind of tropical paradise when they hear the world island. This place is anything but tropical, although some might consider it a kind of paradise. The scenery was amazingly lush and vibrant. The greenery isn't a miracle though as the area's weather can be characterized as rainy with a chance of more rain. The locals said experiencing at least 3 days without some sort of moderate to heavy rainfall was an anomaly most hadn't seen in their lifetimes. Fortunately for us, the weather held up relatively well during our stay. There were even moments when it was down right lovely.



While driving around the island and seeing the sights was pretty impressive, I wasn't picking up on the special vibe I'd read about the area being famous for. In a lot of ways, it reminded me of Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales where we call 'home'. The people were nice, the weather was grey, there were lots of fishing boats that didn't seem too concerned with fishing... what am I missing? Well upon further research, I discovered that most of the people that now live in our region had ancestors that came from Chiloé, thereby bringing their special brand of being right to my doorstep every day. Now if I could only get the rolling hills, forests and beautiful beaches too, we'd really be in business. I've never been to Ireland or Scotland but I feel like the scenery we saw would resemble something one might find in those countries.



The food was certainly one of the more noteworthy aspects of Chiloé and I must admit, it didn't disappoint. Their staple dish is curanto which is a feast unlike any other I've ever heard of. I'm lucky enough to live in a house where curanto is made somewhat regularly and, although it's not made in the traditional way, I can attest to it's deliciousness. The ingredients consist of various kind of shellfish like mussels and oysters as well as others that don't have English names, chicken, chorizo, potatoes, cabbage and a potato pancake-ish thing called chapalele. Traditionally, all these things are placed in a hole in the ground with hot rocks and left alone for a few hours until ready to eat. At my house, it's made in a huge pot as a sort of stew with a little bit of water and a whole bunch of white wine. Drinking the broth has become my favorite part.



I have to send special credit to some street vendors outside the bus station in Castro, the large capital city of Chiloé, for making the most delicious empanada and milcao, which is just like chapalele but fried instead, I've ever had. The empanada I had was filled with apples and tasted like everything a McDonald's baked apple pie should. It was probably about the size of my face and it only cost a dollar. We also got to find 'Mapuche viagra', also known as piure, on a beach outside the city of Ancud. Our tour guide told us that it's supposed to be very healthy to eat raw and described it as not an animal and not a plant but just a thing because it somehow feeds on it's own itself in order to grow. I'm still trying to figure that one out. I couldn't bring myself to eat it because it looked like an old soggy, worn basketball on the outside yet had a tapioca-esque pink and orange inside. I did lick it though. There's a picture to prove it somewhere.

I'm definitely glad we made it to Chiloé and felt it's famous rains dot our foreheads for a few days. The relaxed, kind nature of the people really make it a great place to enjoy life at a slower pace. I loved it for all the reasons I love Punta Arenas and then some.

Good times, mediocre empanadas.

¡Felices Fiestas Patrias!

As mentioned in the previous post, this past 'weekend' (which lasted 6 days) was a time of celebration throughout Chile to mark their 200th anniversary. I wasn't totally sure what to expect but I knew a few important things: my girlfriend was coming to town, there would be lots of bbq-ed meat, there would be various kermesses and fondas to keep everyone busy. With that in mind, it was almost impossible not to have a good time.

The various presentations and contests at school that kicked off the celebrations were truly impressive and I genuinely enjoyed learning about Chile and also seeing some of it's culture first hand. While I've heard some people comment that Chile doesn't have a tremendously rich culture, I have to disagree. While many South American countries can be compared and one can see more than a few similarities, I'm still envious of their traditional feelings and identities that are much more specific than anything we have in the US. Granted, the US doesn't have these specific ideas and traditions because we are a diverse people. I think many would agree that this diversity is the most celebrated part of our culture. While that's a great thing to have, it doesn't give us this specific sense of identity that I feel many of the people of Chile have. It's very cool to see so many people bound over coming from the same places and sharing the same ancestors. The grass is always greener, I suppose.

As I guessed, I danced cueca. Let me rephrase that, I tried to dance cueca. My school had a cueca contest on our last day of school before the break where girls of all ages, and males partners from neighboring schools, showed their skills in front of the whole school. There were three categories broken up by age and I have to say that some of the younger kids were nearly as good as some of the older ones. It's incredible that they've been able to learn so much so quickly... but again, when this dance is so closely related to their national identity, it's kind of a priority. I can't remember how many times I was asked if there was some kind of dance in the US that fills a similar role. For the life of me, I can't think of any one dance that Americans across the country know and identify as being a part of American history.



The fondas and kermesses were also a really interesting part of the celebrations. Kermesses, basically small scale fairs, had been set up all across town as a way to raise funds for the students of the school. Much like the one at my school, there was lots of cake, candy and empanadas being hocked by children of all ages. There were also some of the most ridiculous games I've ever seen. One included trying to extinguish the flame on a candle being held in the mouth of a boy standing 6-7 feet away with a water gun... all for the bargain price of about 15-20 cents. The fondas were fun but not quite what I expected. Roughly translated, fondas are supposed to be cheap, temporary restaurants set up to allow people to eat, drink and be merry. I say roughly translated because they weren't cheap and the food didn't reach any kind of restaurant quality that I've experienced. At any rate, there was lots of drinking and dancing so it was fun. I'd hoped to find something a bit more traditional but ultimately found them to be a way for different organizations in the city to throw parties, make money and give the people of the community a place to get together and dance to the historic, timeless beats of reggaeton and 80's pop music.

I do feel that we get a bit of the raw end of the deal down here in the extreme south when it comes to experiencing the Fiestas Patrias in it's truest sense. While the weather is getting slightly better, there was still no way that any of these events could be held outside. When I watched the news during the weekend, it showed all sorts of clips of people in other parts of the country enjoying sunny outdoor festivals. Don't get me wrong, I still had lots of fun indoors but who doesn't love drinking and eating while the sun does it's best to give you cancer? It's just another slight drawback of living so far from center but there's plenty of other things to be thankful for instead. For example, in just a couple short weeks tens of thousands of penguins will start arriving in the area to begin their mating season. Who needs 85 degree weather when you can cuddle a king penguin?

School?! Not this week...

This week marks the start of the Fiestas Patrias celebrations. Fiestas Patrias is Chile's independence day celebration and this year is guaranteed to be special as I'll be helping them ring in their 200th year of freedom from those Spanish bums. Much of the preparations and sights are similar to what you'd expect to see in the weeks leading up to the 4th of July. Lots of the commercials on TV have patriotic themes and there are lots of news stories about the different celebrations in the different parts of the country. I even saw a news story the other day about how to save money and where to buy certain food if you're planning to have an asado (aka BBQ). I think one of my most favorite things about Chile has been the asado so I can't wait for another reason to attend one.

Being that Chilean schools seem to look for every possible reason not to have class, this week's celebration has provided the perfect excuse to basically cancel classes for the entire week. Last Friday, the festivities kicked off with a special 'project' that all the students had a hand in. The medio students, high school, were assigned different periods of Chilean history while the basico students, elementary, were tasked with coming up with exhibitions for each of Chile's regions. The medio girls did an excellent job showing the struggles and issues present in each time period. I found the recent history involving ex-Presidents Allende (socialist) and Pinochet (right wing militarist) most interesting. By most accounts, Pinochet's era marked a dark time where political and social oppression were more common place than anyone would like to admit. You can still find his influence today in culture and law. For example, divorce only became legally possible in 2004. As you can imagine, it's still a hot topic that creates lots of gossip around the communities when it happens. Another example would be some Chilean teenagers obsession with 80's rock music. They don't seem to be very interested in much of the rock music from the 90's or even today but bands like Guns n' Roses, Metallica, Megadeth and the Ramones are very popular. I can't tell you how many times I've had to disappoint someone by saying I don't like Guns n' Roses very much. Anyway, it was interesting to hear Chilean's reflect on the tumultuous overthrow of their government (which was in part supported by the US) and the years that followed. In many cases, I found that they feel bad about the way things happened but they aren't sure their country would be in such a prosperous position today without those years of stabilization that allowed them to form a somewhat solid infrastructure.

There were plenty of tables where the cute factor outweighed the heaviness of some of the culture. The very little girls worked on projects about the native populations of Chile so they were all dressed up and playing games the Mapuche would have played. I also got to sample lots of food that were typical of the different regions in Chile. I don't have the heart to call them out on it but it really isn't all that terribly different from north to south.





Today brought a fair type event where each class brought food and had games for other students to play. They charge small amounts in order to raise money for activities and field trips the classes would like to do. It was a madhouse in every way imaginable. Some classes sold little sticks that had fruit or marshmallows covered with chocolate that tasted OK. Unfortunately, these palitos were not child safe as they had sharp points. I can't even begin to explain how nervous it made me to see 6 year olds literally running through the halls and around blind corners with sharp sticks. Equally dangerous was a game that many of you would be familiar with that involves popping a balloon with a dart from some arbitrary distance. The twist here was that there were three girls holding the board that the balloons were tied to. Giving a 7 year old a dart and telling her to throw it at the board you're holding in front of your chest takes more guts than I'll ever have. It's true miracle that no one was maimed in the name of fundraising. There was also karaoke... which is a must at any gathering of more than 6 people here in Chile. My ears are still ringing from the sounds of about a hundred girls screaming the words to every song for the last 30 mins of the event.

All in all, fun was had, money was raised and I was slightly overwhelmed. Still, I'm looking forward to the events that are yet to come. The school is having a special cueca competition tomorrow morning that's certain to entertain. Cueca is the national dance that's inspired by the mating rituals of roosters and hens. It's quite... well, I'm still searching for the words to describe it. With any luck (and some kind of mixture of wine, beer and pisco), I'll be attempting my own interpretation of it by sundown on Friday.

The Backpacker's Disneyland

Vacation Rewind Part 4 of 6

The city of Pucón lies quite a bit south of Santiago where our bus from Argentina dropped us off at about 8 pm. Having spent close to two weeks in Santiago when we first arrived in Chile, we knew we didn't want to stay there any longer than we had to. Fortunately, we were able to find a bus that would leave at 9:30 and take us on our way out of the city and into, quite literally, greener pastures. So after a bus station meal consisting of chicken and avocado sandwiches, we said our goodbyes to our friend Jeff who was planning to head north for a few days to wrap up his vacation and boarded our overnight bus to Pucón.

We sprung for the full-cama seats on this bus because our bus trip from Mendoza to Santiago took an entire 4 hours longer than it was supposed to (gotta love those border crossings!) which left us sore and irritable. The difference between semi-cama and full-cama seats in buses is comparable to the difference between first class and coach on an airplane. Being that we'd been on a bus for about 9 hours already and had an additional 14-15 hours ahead of us, we decided fully reclining seats were a must. After experiencing the joys of the full-cama, I'm having a hard time imagining an overnight bus without them.

When we arrived the next morning, we were greeted by a heavy rain storm that we knew we'd have to walk around in for at least a few minutes before we found a hostel to stay in. We'd researched the options a few days before but weren't sure which ones would have rooms available and what the prices might be. Luckily, one of the hostels was only a couple blocks from the bus station so we made our way there first. Because of the torrential downpour, we were soaked by the time we got there and immediately agreed to stay as soon as we stepped in the door. Despite our seemingly rash decision, the hostel was actually one of the best we stayed in during our entire trip. It looked a lot like a big cabin and even had a resident dog named "Negra" that kept us company while the rain poured. The only downside was the lack of heat. As with all places in Chile not named Punta Arenas or Puerto Natales, there isn't much in the way of gas heating. This means that the main source of heat is always log burning stoves and fireplaces. While some volunteers have become extremely adept at starting and maintaining fires for hours at a time in order to keep warm, I haven't been able to hone those skills since I'm spoiled with nice gas heaters in almost every room of the house. Our room was equipped with a small stove-type heater that we'd need to figure out how to use in order to keep from freezing at night. I gave it my best shot but we never got it to work quite the way it was supposed to. Nevertheless, it did the job and we came away from Pucón with all our fingers and toes.

We only planned to stay for a couple of days as we knew there were a couple more places further south that we'd need to visit before returning to the bottom of the planet so we immediately discussed what kinds of activities were available with the hostel owner. He told us about quite a few things, including scaling the nearby volcano and sledding down, but we decided on two of the more relaxing experiences. Our first night would be spent up on the side of the volcano enjoying the mineral pools that spring up along the river that takes the snow melt from the mountain to the lake. The day after would be spent riding horses around the countryside and the foothills outside town.

Before our night time excursion to the hot springs, we wandered around town to see what kinds of things it had to offer. Lonely Planet describes it as a backpacker's Disneyland and I couldn't agree more with the description. It was incredibly touristy (read: expensive). While this can be a drawback for certain aspects of the experience it certainly presents you with tons of benefits as well. For example, the type of food available there is unlike any other place I've been or heard of in Chile. There were Peruvian, Argentine, Mexican, Italian, American and even Middle Eastern restaurants all over the place. There was also a fantastic place that tripled as a hostel, bar and vegetarian restaurant that we visited twice to sample the delicious food they had on offer. One time for lunch, where we sampled the black bean nachos (just like home) and a thai curry dish and one time for breakfast where Marie finally got to enjoy her favorite thing in the world: fresh fruit with yogurt and granola. We were happy kids.

Traveling to the hot springs that night was pretty painless and the pools themselves were great. There must have been at least 7 different size pools to choose from and they were all relatively empty. It was great to be there at night because everything was very quiet and you could relax but I was disappointed about not being able to see the scenery that surrounded the pools because it looked like it'd be pretty incredible with a large river and tons of very tall trees all around. At any rate, you can never underestimate just how happy a bit of warm water can make you. It's the simple things, right?

The next day we were picked up by a very nice woman that would take us out to the ranch where we'd set out on horses for a few hours. Marie had never been horseback riding but had always wanted to so she was VERY excited and a bit nervous. I'd only been a few times but always enjoyed it so I was looking forward to an interesting experience. When we arrived, we found our two trusty steeds ready to take us away. Mine was named Esperanza and Marie had Polka. For reasons only known to cowboys, I had a great time. I noticed myself smiling ear to ear quite a few times and I wasn't totally sure why. The mixture of the greenery, the rivers, the volcanoes, the sheep watching us stroll by, the galloping and the fresh air just made me incredibly content.




We enjoyed our short time in Pucón and I'm sure it's even more impressive during the summer when the weather is warm and swimming in the lake is encouraged. We left a little disappointed that we couldn't be spending more time there but knew that our next destination, Chiloe, would have plenty to make us satisfied to be moving on.

August showers bring September flowers... and more wind.

The home stretch is here. It's hard to believe that we're entering our 6th month in Chile which has served as a signal that the end is near. At this point, there's a certain mix of emotions ranging from excitement to pure dread regarding our impending return to the places we used to call home. For many of us, including myself, the places we used to call home won't be there. It'll be time to start something new all over again.

I can't help but become a bit sentimental and reflective as I think about leaving this place. I think about all the things I've learned and experienced so far and find myself very satisfied about what I'll take away. I've gotten actual experience in teaching. I've learned a moderate amount of Spanish. I've met people that I'll never forget. I've done and seen things that I'd never dreamed I'd see. There are also some things that I'd hoped to figure out by the end of this experience that haven't happened. However, I've come to realize that those questions are ones that will never be truly answered for me. I'm much, much more comfortable with that thought than I've ever been in my life. I've learned a lot about my capacities to find happiness in things that seemed trivial or uninteresting. For this, I'm very excited about the prospects of returning to the good ol' US of A to waste more time with lots of trivial and uninteresting things... kidding, of course (I think).

It feels as though my daily routine and my feelings about it have become polarized. There are lots of things that are great about teaching at my school and living with my host family. The good things have only gotten better and really are the things that keep me going. For example, walking through the halls at school and seeing tons of kids smile and trying to say "Hello! How are you?" is always guaranteed to cheer me up. I can't be in a bad mood after receiving a hug from 10-15 3rd graders. It's more impossible than swallowing a spoonful of cinnamon or eating three packages of saltine crackers in 2 mins (you'll have to try those out to understand what I mean). I find my family, on the whole, to be very caring and kind. My host dad is a great guy that always looks out for me and always wants me to feel included. My host mom is very hard working and I don't quite understand how she's able to balance so many things at once while still remaining so sweet and calm.

At the same time, there are a few things that aren't as great that can test my patience. I've found that trying to teach a group of 11-12 year old girls anything is probably one of the most frustrating things I've ever done. They insist on talking, giggling and avoiding work at all times. They literally cannot be quiet for more than 30 seconds at a time. There are also a lot of challenges when it comes to school that have nothing to do with the students. Working within the framework of the school and with a group of teachers has been challenging as well. The nature of things seem to be constantly changing which can be incredibly frustrating. I've also rediscovered to joy of living with teenagers. Cold shoulders, loud screams of "Mamá" and hearing the same song on repeat for 3 hours at a time is something I've had to get used to.

All in all, traveling Chile has been everything I expected it to be and a whole lot more. I'm excited about the last 2.5 months of this experience and the warm weather and clear skies that lie ahead in spring. Vamos a ver...

I can smell the stink from here.

I've never been one to espouse political opinions openly without being asked. I've always been interested in these things because they are important to where we are and where we're going. I'd say the level of my interest in following current events at the national level could be characterized as mild. I enjoy reading NPR and CNN, probably even more so now that I'm detached from my homeland as a way to try to stay in touch... plus I have a lot more time on my hands these days than I used to. However, by no means whatsoever am I the kind of person that consistently wants to discuss politics or argue contradictory points in order to prove to anyone listening that I have knowledge of a subject that they may not. That being said, taking a minute to post something on this blog that's so far been devoted to my experiences in Chile gives you a clue as to how important some recent news is and how much it's affected me.

While the people of Chile are literally celebrating in the streets after learning that 33 miners involved in a mine collapse almost three weeks ago are still alive, I'm reading about something that's made me embarrassed and concerned about my own country at the most basic of levels. I've read many, many articles about the current debate regarding the Islamic community center being proposed a few blocks from the 9/11 site and the controversy that has ensued. I remember reading an article about the proprietors purchasing the property months ago and how, at that time, there were a handful of concerned NYC citizens that thought the location might be insensitive. I remember reading the article because I instantly had a feeling of dread about what would soon follow. Although it took much longer than I thought, a group of hateful, scared people have created an enormous issue that could affect not only the discourse in many elections in the coming months but the image of our country as a free, welcoming place.

The right to practice and hold any religious beliefs is as important as freedom of speech, right to bear arms or even the right to vote. It's ironic that many of the people standing in these crowds trying to prevent the construction of a perfectly legal center are the same people who sing the praises of the second amendment's right to bear arms. How might they feel if someone tried to tell them they shouldn't be allowed to carry guns because sometimes bad people do bad things with them? The minute we begin to discriminate and attempt to prevent others from living the way they'd like to live is the minute we've ceased to be the United States of America. We were founded with these principles in order to make us different. We've in fact become different and as a result are, albeit arguably, one of the greatest nations in the history of the world. Sacrificing these same principles due to fear and ignorance can only lead to a fundamental change in the character of American culture, politics, expectations and capacities. Some of the community centers opponents have argued that Arab countries wouldn't allow Christian churches to be built near their historic sights (or at all in some cases). That is 100% true, of course they wouldn't. That's exactly what makes us different. We would, we should and we will.

I've heard multiple protesters saying incredibly ignorant, shameful things that make me squirm. While I would agree that the placement of the center was contentious and questionable, I must take the organizers reasons for doing so seriously. They say their hope is to educate and inform the people of the community about Islam in an effort to dispel the kinds of rumors and misinformation that lingers throughout our country. It's this very same hearsay that leads these protesters to make false claims and monger fear among people that don't have the time to find the facts. I read one specific article about a community meeting in NYC where the center was discussed and a man named Zaed Ramadan. When it was his turn to speak, he held up his US passport in an effort to deflect some of the obvious flippant dismissals that could occur when he spoke. Unfortunately, the crowd didn't even give the man a chance to speak as they shouted him down at a public debate as he began to explain his opinion. I can only imagine how terrible he must have felt to be surrounded by such disrespect and disregard. Again, it's embarrassing and I can't believe such shamefulness has been allowed to occur.

There are also those that demand President Obama take a position on the topic. I find the claims to be entirely convenient for this time and place. The President took the high road by reiterating our country's constitution that allows freedom of religion. He opted not to interfere with local matters that are out of his jurisdiction and frankly, none of his concern. Imagine that... President Obama, the same one who was being called a communist who couldn't wait to take control of every aspect of your life a few months ago, was letting the people work it out instead of exerting power where it wasn't needed. Demanding that he decide what needs to happen now is hypocrisy in every sense of the word.

It's very sad this Islamaphobia is gaining so much traction throughout the country because it will surely only prove to alienate and anger Muslim people across the world. This alienation and anger is the fuel for the terrorist fire that burns inside the schools and organizations that condone and support violence these protesters are so afraid of. The more we push these people away now, the more sure we can be that this issue will one day come to a point of no return in the future. We'll only have ourselves to blame if we allow this angry, awful energy change the nature of who we are.

Self-fulfilling prophecies are fun, aren't they?

Mendoza, Argentina... I want you back.

Vacation Rewind Part 3 of 6

The minute I stepped onto the bus at the Buenos Aires bus station, I knew I was going to enjoy Mendoza. I can be accused of not having the most objective attitude when arriving and therefore finding it to be more awesome than it actually but at the end of the day, it doesn't really matter. It was more awesome.

I wasn't sure what to expect in terms of what the city looked like. I wasn't sure how large it was or what kinds of specifics things we would do. All I knew was that there would be fresh air and open spaces. That's all I had to know. The fact that Mendoza is the wine capital of Argentina doesn't hurt either. Due to some incredibly shoddy internet service at our hostel in Buenos Aires, we weren't able to book a hostel before arriving. This isn't a great feeling to have when getting off the bus in a new place because you really have no place to go but you've got to figure it out as soon as possible. The bus station was very busy and we were quickly approached by different people offering their hostels. We took a couple fliers but were turned off by their persistence (also could have been interpreted as stalking). We got a list from a tourist info booth of all the hostels in the city and set on our way to find one relatively close to the center. As we walked around the city, I soon started to understand just how large a place it was. In my opinion, it was the perfect size which allows for a lot of the niceties of a large city without some of the nastiness. For example, it had various kinds of restaurants and bars that catered to almost any taste but it still remained quiet and clean. We ended up walking by a hostel towards the edge of center and basically settled on it because we were sick of walking. It wasn't until after we were showered and hungry that we discovered the gold mine we'd planted ourselves next to.

As became habit, we set out from the hostel to find something to eat without any real place in mind. It took all of two blocks of walking for us to find EXACTLY what we'd been craving... a vegetarian buffet. All you can eat for about $5. It was freaking delicious. They had plain salad and fruits as well as tons of dishes like quiches, stir fry, lasagna, empanadas & pasta. I think Jeff's organs were a little confused by the lack of meat as he had to take a couple breaks during the meal to figure out how to process it. He's a straight up meat lover. That being said, you may find yourself a bit confused about my excitement for such a place based on how much I've talked about delicious meat meals in Argentina & Uruguay so far. After all, Nick is the vegetarian Rossmiller, not me. I think this seeming contradiction is kind of a microcosm for the way my brain works. I LOVE bbq'ed meat, no doubt about it. However, I can't eat it day in and day out. My body craves nutrients that can only be gotten by chewing copious amounts of non-meat stuffs. I just appreciate both sides of the coin. I've never been too passionate or demanding about anything because I feel that everything anyone does or likes has an inherent value. This is probably a topic for another post. I'll remember it for later. At any rate, we went back to the vegetarian restaurant for cheap lunches multiple times.

The restaurant also served as a tourist booth for our first day. The girl working at the restaurant was very friendly so we asked her what we should walk around to see with the remaining hours of the day. She recommended walking through the plaza and then going to the large regional park they have nearby. It had a hill (which usually means great views) and a very famous statue commemorating the group of liberators that fought together to get Spain out of South America. We opted to walk the whole way to get some sun and exercise in an effort to sweat out some of the toxins we'd been building up. It was a beautiful day and probably around 65-70 degrees which feels quite hot to a few kids from the bottom of the world. Along the way, we walked by a soccer stadium that was used during the World Cup in 1978 when Argentina hosted the tournament. I had no idea it was there but the look on Marie's face as we saw the sign let me know that something was up. She politely asked if we'd be going in to take another soccer stadium tour. I could tell there was more to this. I had no specific urge to tour the place as there isn't any kind of historical significance about it but she didn't know that. I came to find out that she discovered the stadium existed online a day or two before we arrived but decided to keep it a secret so that we wouldn't have to make another soccer stop. She's sassy like that sometimes.



Anyway, we got to the top of the hill and saw the statue. We piggybacked along with some of the tour groups to learn about the history of the statue and it's significance, which was nice. Once we were ready to go we noticed that the sun would soon be setting so we decided to stick around to watch. It's not every day you get to see the sun go down over the Andes.





That night we made our way down to a street called Avenida Villanueva Aristides where all the best restaurants and bars are. Now as previously stated, I hadn't done much research about Mendoza but I did know that there was a mexican restaurant which needed a visit. For those of you that don't know, my emotions for mexican food are pretty intense. Let me put it this way, if I love the future child that I may someday have as much as I love mexican food, I'm going to be the best dad ever. With that kind of affection for the food, I was pretty confident that this random place in the middle of Argentina was not going to be that great. It was decent and it satisfied my craving for the ingredients in the food I love so dearly but it didn't taste mexican. I'll just have to keep waiting patiently until December to be reunited with some of my favorite dishes. It's one of the things I miss most (no offense, family).

The next day we planned to take a tour of various wineries, olive farms and chocolate factories outside the city. There are quite a few companies that rent bikes, cars or even horses to take these tours to help you move from place to place quickly. We opted for the bikes. We got a bit of a late start because it was more complicated to arrive than we anticipated but we were still able to visit 4 or 5 places. We tasted a good deal of wine and even tried absinthe at one of the chocolate/liquour factories. I'd tried it once before but I've come to the conclusion that it either wasn't absinthe or we didn't prepare it right because this time it was incredibly harsh. You could feel every bit of the 60-70% alcohol that it contains as it worked it's way down your throat. We also got to visit a small brewery that seemed to be out in the middle of nowhere. The wineries were a lot of fun and we got a good combination of small and large wineries. Since we got a late start, we actually stayed at the last winery and watched the sunset on a large patio they'd set up. I guess when you're in Mendoza you do get to watch the sunset over the Andes every day. We were definitely taking our time and enjoying the view and the wine because we weren't looking forward to our long ride back to the bike shop that would now be made in the dark. When we finally made it outside to start the trek back, we discovered a police car waiting near our bikes. It turned out that we didn't have anything to worry about as these were the "tourist police" and they'd come to personally escort us back to the bike shop since we were the last tour takers of the day. So we rode our bikes on the side of the street while our very own police car coasted behind us with it's lights on. It was exactly as funny and ridiculous as it sounds. We got lots of sarcastic "Gracias" & "Hasta Luego" comments from the Mendocinos along the side of the street as we made our way back.





The next day we signed up for a tour of Andes that would take us up through the different levels of the range (there are 3, just so you know) and make stops at different landmarks or sights along the way. After our first stop, we got the bad news that our bus had broken down and we'd have to wait for a couple of smaller vans to meet us before proceeding. This meant the Spanish/English tour group would be split into separate Spanish and English groups. Since we knew a least a decent amount of Spanish and all the seats in the English bus were taken pretty quickly, we took our seats in the back of the van the Spanish only bus. It was a challenging experience to say the least. On the bright side, Marie and I got about 6 or 7 hours of listening practice. We stopped at a particularly interesting place called Puente del Inca which is a natural rock formation that formed a bridge over a river that was used by...you guessed it, the Inca. Since we were visiting in the winter, there was lots of ice that made it look pretty impressive. The building you can see in the picture isn't some kind of castle structure built by the Inca. It was actually a day spa that a nearby hotel opened. Quite shameful, I think. Fortunately, things came full circle as the hotel was destroyed by an avalanche in the 70's. They didn't rebuild so the spa building is just a permanent part of the scenery now.





I definitely think Mendoza is a great place to visit and it seemed as though it can be even more impressive during the summer. There's rafting, fishing, kayaking and horseback riding more readily available then so you can easily get a great mix of city nightlife while also keeping busy outside the city during the day. I was sad to be leaving but strangely excited to be going back to Chile. It is after all my adopted home.

Our bus ride from Mendoza to Santiago was probably the only bus ride I'll ever be really excited about taking because it takes you right through the heart of the Andes and over the top to the other side. It was incredibly scenic, especially at the top where the border control offices sit. When we arrived at the top, and officially in Chile, Jeff and I decided to celebrate the occasion with a classic Chilean completo. It was the best completo I've yet to have. I'm pretty sure it was a chicken or turkey dog and they toasted the bun. They never toast the bun.



Next stop...Pucón.

Big City Nights

Vacation Rewind Part 2 of 6

Buenos Aires was interesting. While some can be swept up in the bright lights, tall buildings and loud noises of big cities, I can never seem to find myself very excited about them. The pattern held true during our stay in one of the largest cities in the world. I wasn't overly excited about the prospect of spending a large chunk of time there but I knew I needed to give it a shot. I was excited about the famous parilladas and the chance to see a couple of my fellow volunteers that I hadn't seen since Santiago.

Don't get me wrong. Big cities are wonderful places where you can find anything you'll ever want or need. They are usually packed with all different kinds of people and you can usually find something somewhat exciting happening at any given moment. All that sounds great on the surface but I rarely seem to find much contentment when I find myself in those kinds of places. I suppose I can sum it up by saying I always end up feeling overstimulated and completely worn out. I consider myself to be an extremely observant person. I like to look around, listen and feel what's around me. I like to understand how I fit in with the surroundings before making them my own. I find it impossible to find any sort of balance in big cities. There's always something flashing by, someone talking loudly, someone giving you a weird look (obviously, this is amplified when you're traveling). As a result, I can never be comfortable and never fully enjoy myself in such places. I wish I'd more properly figured this out before my stay in Buenos Aires because it surely would have helped me try to fend some of it off... well, maybe.

At any rate, I did manage to enjoy myself at times and got to do and see a couple things I never thought possible. As soon as we arrived, we ran into our old friend Jeff in the hostel lobby. In typical Jeff style, he was already refreshing his thirst with a liter of the beer. This small facet of his personality I have come to love and hate... only because of the pain and suffering it inevitably brings the next day.

The nightlife did catch us a little of balance since there's not a whole lot in the way of clubs (for adults, anyway) down south in Punta Arenas. One of my clearest memories of said nightlife came at the end of the first night when Jeff and I stumbled into a closet-small shop that we'd found by asking the guy working at the hostel where we could find something to eat. The place was made of cinder blocks, had a grill that needed a bath and a couple Argentine gentlemen doing nothing but drinking beer, one of whom I found myself talking with about the Chilean and US national soccer teams. At the end of the experience, we ended up back at the hostel with a bag full of choripanes, which are just chorizo sandwiches, and another bag full of beer. Being that it was about 4 or 5 am, there's no way we were going to be able to finish the 10-12 choripanes and 5-6 liters of beer we brought back. I tend to suspect that we showed the man with the dirty grill how much money we had and asked him to give us all we could carry. I ate 3 and drank 1 and immediately fell asleep. The next morning hurt quite a bit. I'm still not sure whether the overall crappiness I felt was due to the beer and couple rounds of ''surprise'' tequila shots from Jeff or the choripanes.

The only souvenir I have from Buenos Aires is also the result of Jeff and I acting like jackasses. For reasons known only to 9 year old boys and myself at the time, I decided it was a good idea to jump on Jeff's back while we were walking down the street looking for a restaurant. He continued the sequence of bad decisions by attempting to run with me attached to his back. We made it about 20-25 feet before falling... kinda hard. Jeff broke his camera and I did quite a number on my hip bone. I now have a scar to remember it forever.



Honestly, the details of our 5 days are hazy because of the mental funk discussed above...and the booze. I remember there was lots of wine, beer and meat. There were a few plazas, some parks, big buildings and lots of graffiti, most of which had something to do with Diego Maradona since the World Cup had recently concluded. We did get to visit La Bombonera, where Boca Jrs (arguably, the most famous team in South America), plays it's games. I'd like to send a special thank you to Marie for allowing us to tour the stadium. I don't think she'd ever really thought much about soccer until this trip and she's done a great job pretending to be interested.





The Pink House at night was pretty remarkable and therefore one of my favorite places. We got to see lots tango shows throughout the city but there was a very colorful neighborhood called La Boca (it's not a coincidence that the team is called Boca Jrs) where there are tango cafes with dancers, singers and musicians. There was also other kinds of food which, at times, was what got Marie and I most excited which proves that we are indeed getting old. We made a couple particularly delicious stops at a an italian and indian restaurant. The indian restaurant was particularly exciting because of the spicy food available. Although it wasn't quite the mexican spices I've come to love so dear, it was close enough to satisfy the craving for heat.





As our time in Buenos Aires grew thin, I started to get very excited about our next destination in Mendoza, Argentina. I didn't know much about it but I knew there was wine, the Andes and clean air. Before we were able to get there we had to manage to find our way to the Buenos Aires bus station for an overnight bus which meant we needed to ride the subway system during rush hour with our backpacks and all our stuff. As if we didn't look like targets for pick-pockets before right? Unfortunately, we did have an "experience" with a thuggish porteña that had some happy hands. As we were getting on to one of the trains, I felt a hand hovering around my front pocket where my wallet was. Coincidentally, my hand was coming down right on top of it so it seemed to be just an accident to me at the time. However, as I turned to see where Marie was I saw the girl reaching for the zipper on Marie's purse. Now I knew there was no coincidence so I quickly smacked her hand away. She responded by pushing my arm and giving me a menacing look, which was easy to do because she wasn't the prettiest girl I'd seen lately and she had the sides of her head shaved. She knew she'd been caught so she didn't say anything else and got off at the very next station. I wish I could say that was the last bad experience I had but a kid came up to me at the bus station as we were about to get on our bus asking for money. I told him I didn't have any cash but he wouldn't leave me alone. I'm 95% percent certain he tried to threaten me with something sharp that he was holding in his sweatshirt sleeve but I just kept telling him I didn't have anything. Eventually, he left me alone and we finally got out of Buenos Aires.

All in all, I'm glad I went but I'm not sure it'll be on my list of places I need to visit again. If you enjoy big cities and the excitement it brings, Buenos Aires is right up there with LA and NY. If you don't, don't go.