Obligatory ''before'' shot.
Going into Torres del Paine, I wasn't necessarily a rookie. I've been on countless camping trips with my dad, friends and, somewhat regrettably, the Boy Scouts. Setting up tents, rolling up sleeping bags and making sure your head is uphill before you fall asleep are all things I've done many times and have no hesitations about doing. However, I cannot say the same in terms of hiking and trekking... especially for a 6 day trek through one of the more famous national parks in the world. I knew the basics of what I'd need and what kind of experience to expect when sleeping on the ground for consecutive nights but I had no idea just how tough some of it would be. Trekking through the park was probably the most physically demanding thing I've ever done. Of course, there have been times when I've been more tired or worn out in the short term (for example, after long runs or soccer games) but this trek really introduces you to a new level of tired. Walking up and down hills with a pack for 6-7 hours will wear you out even if it's just for one day. If you have to then sleep on the cold ground and get up in the morning ready to do it again, it really starts to break you down. I had the unfortunate fortune of needing to buy a backpack before the trip. For the same reason that you shouldn't buy a new pair of shoes before running a marathon, you shouldn't buy a backpack the day before you leave for a trekking trip. My back and neck were hurting pretty badly after the second day but they eventually toughened up and I was fine by the end. Despite all the physical pain, I managed to have a great time seeing some of the most beautiful things these eyes have ever seen. I think it's appropriate for me to now break the news that I don't have any pictures that. In a strange twist of fate, my camera battery freaked out the night before we left and wouldn't recharge. All the pictures seen here are borrowed from Marie.
We started near Lago Pehoe which is that glacier greenish-blue color that you really have to see to believe. It looks like the color of the ponds at miniature golf courses... that really makes it sound crappy, doesn't it? At any rate, I did lots of obligatory rock skipping and water watching while nestled right next to the massive Paine Grande mountain that holds a few of the glaciers that provide the lake with water.
Paine Grande on the left. Los Cuernos on the right.
From there, we moved around Paine Grande to the absolutely immense Glaciar Grey. A couple of the guys and I decided to take a swim in the lake, justly named Lago Grey. I figured it might be the only chance I get to swim in a lake with a glacier so the hypothermia that threatened seemed worth the risk. Needless to say, it was cold. I was hoping to last at least a couple minutes. As I waded in and felt all the muscles in my body lock up and noticed I was having a hard time yelling to express how cold it was because my lungs wouldn't expand like they're accustomed to, I decided the possibility of literally freezing and bobbing up and down in the lake with the rest of the icebergs wasn't what I wanted from my future. So I lasted a grand total of 25 seconds.
Day 3 brought the unenviable task of walking back around Paine Grande to a campsite sandwiched between it and Los Cuernos del Paine. Because of the shape of the W, there are parts you have to walk twice and I found these parts the most difficult because the excitement of turning a corner and seeing something you haven't seen before doesn't exist anymore. Those hikes just felt like work. We awoke the next day to walk further up between the two peaks into the Valle del Frances. Reaching the end of that trail may have been the most scenic spot of all. You were surrounded by snowcapped peaks, rivers, forest and glaciers. You could also look back out over the southern horizon and see lakes, islands and distant mountain ranges. It was incredible. After descending back to the campsite we had to move around the base of Los Cuernos to another campsite that was tucked right under them. I have to say I like Los Cuernos more than Las Torres, for which the park is named. There's just something about their colors and sharpness that are more striking to me.
Day 5 may have been the most difficult day to complete. That was partly due to the never ending sloping hills that needed to be conquered and also due to the blistering temperatures. It couldn't have been much warmer than 70 degrees but it felt like it was 110. The reward for such a tough day was arriving at the base of Las Torres which signaled the last of the landmarks on our trek.
We were tired.
We woke up at 4:45 am on Day 6 in order to make the nearly vertical climb up to Las Torres in time for sunrise. Seeing the them light up as if they were on fire with the morning light was pretty remarkable and I don't take for granted how special it was to be able to see if from so close up.
The rest of that day was spent working our way back down toward the area where there's a hotel that's a stop for the shuttle buses which take you to the main entrance of the park and back to the friendly confines of Puerto Natales. My lovely girlfriend and I celebrated by sharing what may be the single most delicious beer I've ever drank in the lobby of the hotel while we waited.
I came back to Punta Arenas and was welcomed with a crushingly underwhelming afternoon and immediately wanted to go back. I'm in full countdown mode now... Machu Picchu in less than a month!
Well said man! It was an amazing trip for sure, now on to Machu Picchu!!
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